Tasting Table • March 2, 2012
Generally, going undercover is reserved for those in the fields of law enforcement or espionage. Such an act is a far cry from the admittedly comfortable environs of food journalism.
Then along comes Tracie McMillan, author of The American Way of Eating. Her ambitious book chronicles the nine months she spent investigating the American food system from the inside: first as a laborer in California’s farm fields, then as a produce clerk at Walmart and finally in the kitchen at Applebee’s.